Nothing is worse than spending hours on a print that looks like you've built it out of clay and tossed it on the ground. Here, we share with you our most frequented lists of websites to help you solve some of these 3D printing problems.
First layer problems
To add to the video, be careful not to add too much glue (too thick a layer) as it will affect the heating between the heat bed and the first layer. This could result in your part lifting even more.
Sometimes if the part is too thick, you might need to resort to tape down the Brim. (You can create it using the Slic3r software) However this can be relatively dangerous as your heat bed would be hot once the print has started.
As heat is involved, be extremely careful. Support problemsThis problem refers to the aesthetic one (*PLA filament is used here).
If you are printing a shell like structure (hollow centre), you would need support material. In this website, we printed the cover, and were faced with the issue of sacrificing either the amount of material used, duration of print or the final finish. This is because the print orientation of the part would ultimately affect all these three factors. For example, half of the cover on an average printer takes a duration of 3 hours when printed sideways, if it was to be printed upright, it can take up to 6-8 hours. Additionally, a lot more (support) material will be required. This would be a complete waste as the support material will be removed after printing and thrown away. Once you are done printing, you then painstakingly tear of the support material.
The support material may support the printing of the part, but it sure doesn't support you in making your task easier. Remove them with a plier (or penknife, though this is not advisable), and use the sand paper to smooth the rough edges.
If you're lucky and using a material that disguises the sand paper scratches, you're in luck. Else, like the rest of us, you will have something like this.
Here's a quick TIP to fix the obvious scratches.
Find some clear nail polish (also known as Top coat- do not use base coat, it is not the same) and coat two layers over the areas scratch. If you have never painted your nails before, just know that it takes a long while for a thick layer of top coat to dry. The smell can be strong, Paint in a ventilated area. you are not alone.
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This site covers a huge range of issues, mainly because it links you to relevant sites to help you out.
Rather than a pictorial guide , it shows you photos of the problem and links you to sites that may help you solve this. If you're still very new to your printer, it can be frustrating as the solutions would still need you to understand how to calibrate or set certain functions of your printer, to truly make use of the solutions. |
2. 16 Common 3d Printing problems and solutions
Dealing with printing problems are undeniably the worse part of the 3D printing process.
Hence, you would find sites like this 'soothing' as the problems are presented in a neat and clear manner. Similar to the other links, you would need to understand how to calibrate or set certain functions of your printer, to truly make use of the solutions. |
3. Print quality troubleshooting guide
In terms of presentation and solution providing, this would be the best site (*based on personal experience).
It shows you the possible causes to your problem and describes them accordingly. This allows you to practically have a check list to run through which is pretty convenient when you've tried multiple solutions to solve the problem. |
Sharing point
As a beginner, you can't help but overlook certain areas. This is a personal experience I encountered using the 3D Printer where you reach a point where you say,
"I've tried everything from configuring the settings, printing from different rotations and am close to breaking the printer into pieces."
At this point, you might need to stop and double check if the software (e.g. Cura or Slic3r) you are using to convert the STL file to G-code is suitable for your printer. Here, I had actually swapped to a different software which is not the recommended software (but is compatible). If you are uncertain about the software, check with your supplier for advice.
"I've tried everything from configuring the settings, printing from different rotations and am close to breaking the printer into pieces."
At this point, you might need to stop and double check if the software (e.g. Cura or Slic3r) you are using to convert the STL file to G-code is suitable for your printer. Here, I had actually swapped to a different software which is not the recommended software (but is compatible). If you are uncertain about the software, check with your supplier for advice.
LEARN HOW TO Set up your 3d printer |
LEARN HOW TO Convert to a STL FILE |
USEFUL LINKS
The links below were referenced in creating the summary above, do refer to them for further details.
- Print Troubleshoot Pictorial Guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide - Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems and Solutions
https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-and-their-solutions/